Rutland and Mount Bromley

This story begins about 30 miles and a day and a half outside of Rutland…

I was walking down the trail near the end of the day when I ran into three Northbound thru hikers.  Now it should be noted that typically, a short conversation takes place when Northbounders and Southbounders meet on the trail concerning any information worth noting (typically these conversations include water sources, distances to land marks, shelter conditions, and food/lodging recommendations for upcoming towns). These three thru northbounders however, appeared to quite literally be on something, and were having a great deal of difficulty forming coherent and logically flowing speech.

While most of what they said made little sense, they did successfully convey three distinct things:

1.       Enter the town of Rutland, Vermont and check it out. Locate the Twelve Tribes hiker hostel and stay the night.

2.       Drink the tea.

3.       Rescue Megan.

While I assumed that all three of these things were somehow related, I wasn’t absolutely sure. I tried to ask them more questions to try to get a better idea of what exactly they meant (especially about ‘rescue Megan’), but the only response I got was “You’ll see.”

I walked on, quite puzzled, but still trying to make sense out of the information I did have. Go into Rutland and stay at the hostel was simple enough, but the tea and Megan? Strange…

Luckily, a few hours later, I ran into two more Northbounders named Booksmarts and Trauma. I mentioned the three others I (attempted) to talk to previously, and they started laughing. Apparently, my assumption that the others were on something was not far off.

I did take the chance to ask them about everything, though, and Booksmarts helped me connect the dots. The Twelve Tribes hostel is in downtown Rutland. Yet “Twelve Tribes” is not simply the name of the hostel; it is the name of a religious commune with chapters (or “clans”) located all over the US. The Rutland chapter of the Twelve Tribes are the guys who run the hostel.

Booksmarts also clarified who Megan was. Apparently, she was a Northbound hiker who stopped in at the the hostel for a night, but ultimately ended up staying for longer and was “drinking the Kool-aid, man…drinking the Kool-aid hard core.” He too voiced concern for her, and said that she was on the fence about quitting her hike and joining their community.

He did agree, however, that the tea at the hostel was delicious, and I should drink some at the first opportunity I got.

We then said our goodbyes, and I thanked him for clarifying the spotty information I obtained from his compatriots.

I had never heard of the Twelve Tribes before, but the way Booksmarts was talking it sounded a lot like some sort of religious cult. And it’s not like religious cults need more members; especially ones that use the draw of a hot shower, laundry, and a warm bed to prey on hikers. Therefore, “rescuing” Megan seemed like the most logical course of action. Plus, there was no question in my mind that I could get her back to the trail. After running fraternity parties for 2 years, I’d gotten really good at convincing drunk people to listen to me. I figured slow brainwashing was just a simple form of mental intoxication, and I could easily manage that. Megan was getting back on the trail. End of story.

But as I kept walking, I continued pondering the circumstances. And the more I pondered, the less sure I was about what I was going to do at that point. I knew I was going to go into Rutland to stay at the hostel (and drink the tea of course), but the idea of “rescuing” Megan continued to plauge me. If I was able to find her and convince her to hike on, I would have returned her to the life she was living before she found the Twelve Tribes and the Northbounders would no doubt be happy to hear she was back on the trail. But if she could somehow find happiness with the Twelve Tribes clan, but I talked her back on the trail anyway, would I really be acting her best interests?

I ultimately decided I would re-evaluate what I was going to do after making it to the hostel and seeing the Twelve Tribes for myself.

I hiked on and caught a ride into Rutland a day later (side-quest objective 1 complete). The hostel happened to be in a prime location, right in the main shopping district downtown. It was above this place called “The Yellow Deli” which the Twelve Tribes also own and operate.

I followed the directions on the hostel door and entered the Deli. I always get self conscious at moments like this…most restaurant patrons do not take kindly to hikers, but that is completely understandable; the scent of a dirty, sweat-soaked hiker is horridly unnapetizing. Yet the body of a hiker does not smell nearly as horrible as his gear. The body and clothes can be washed…the pack/sleeping/bag/tent/boots/whatever else is carried is typically washed. Therefore, the stench of dirty hiker paired with dirty gear can be unbearable to unnacustomed nostrils. And because I was not sure where I would be taken next after checking in at the café, and leaving my pack on the street would not be a good idea, I was carrying my pack with me when I entered the café.

The hosts were very friendly, though. I had not been standing inside the café more than a minute before I was greeted by a man who introduced himself as Alaf (uh-lawf) the hostel caretaker. He then asked me if I wanted some cold tea, to which I replied “absolutely.”

I drank it down incredibly fast. It was as delicious as the Northbounders had claimed (side-quest objective 2 completed).

When I was done, Alaf directed me to the bunk room. Modest bunks, but a very clean and well kept place.

Two showers, a bathroom, and about 10 bunks total. And lucky for me, a bottom bunk was still open. I happily snatched it.

Once I had unpacked, done laundry, and gone shopping, I figured I would explore a little bit. The Twelve Tribes café and hostel was only a smaller part of a much larger complex, and the tribesmen (easy to spot because of their modestly simple clothes, long hair, and head bands) were such welcoming people that no place was exclusively off limits; hikers were free to walk around and interact with tribe members as they pleased. I decided I would take the opporunity to walk around and discreetly talk to the tribesmen and try to get any information Megan.

I was particularly intersted in a bus they had parked out front. The “Peacemaker” bus seen here is a historical artifact in and of itself. I spoke to some of them about it, and it was apparently a recruiting vehicle for the Twelve Tribes back in the 1960’s when they traveled around to Greatful Dead concerts trying to spread the word about their beliefs. They still use it for travel between their chapters, though. The interior has been remodeled several times, but a good deal of it is still composed of original parts.

They even have a freaking gas stove and full fridge. Incredible.

In the process of checking out the bus, I was able to speak to a good many tribesmen, and I took the opporunity to ask them what this whole Twelve Tribes thing was really about. After talking to them for a while, I learned a good deal about them:

1. Twelve Tribes' name comes from the 12 continents of the world, where they hope to have active chapters one day.

2. They are followers of Jesus Christ, but they resent the term "christian", as it was originally a derogatory term used by the Greeks.  Instead, they say they are followers of "Yashuah" and his teachings of "The Way"

3. To formally join the 12 tribes and become a tribesman, you must give up all your possessions, money, and job.

4. You obtain a Hebrew name when you join. Your old name disappears.

5. Their economic system is communal. Their money all goes into the same pot. They all work jobs at facilities they own and operate themselves.

6. They have no central governing executive, but they do have a committee of elders that handles "big" decisions.

7. All their children are home schooled, and the tribesmen do not believe in higher education. When their children turn 16, they choose a discipline and serve as an apprentice to someone in the tribe whom already does that job.

While i can't say they make much sense, they definitely kept me entertained for the afternoon. Yet i was still no closer to finding Megan. But, truth be told, I hadn't be looking that hard.

I checked the bunk room. No luck. All guys.

I checked the common room. Again, no luck. It was empty except for a couple tribesmen.

I then decided to go for a long shot and check the laundry room. didn't hear anything running, but maybe i might get lucky. but, no surprise, she wasn't there. but as i was turning to leave, something caught my eye.

in the laundry room, there was a rack marked "free clothes" of all types shapes sizes etc. while most hostels offer loaner clothes to hikers to wear while their laundry gets done, it is always made clear that these are LOANERS. but i carry clean clothes to wear in town, so i didn't notice it before. but what caught my eye specifically was underneath the rack...a pair of women's hiking boots. and above them, a set of hiking clothes on the rack.

At that point I figured that Megan had either moved on, or she was still there. just with a Hebrew name. either way, my side quest into Rutland had come to a close. I hit the trail the next day.

A few days later, I ended up on Bromley mountain. An active ski resort in the winter,  but still a trail destination in the summer. At the summit, a ski patrol hut, gondola, and observation deck.

And yes, that is my tent on top of the observation deck.

No way to stake it down...good thing i know a bit about knots.

Sunset.

Crossing into Mass in less than a week. but no more zero days (days off) until New York.

Onward!